The ultimate vintage nylon stocking size guide.

---

Here is some useful information on how to wear a suspender belt and stockings, what to do to get the best from the experience and what to look out for when buying them.   Putting on seamed full fashioned nylons is always a contentious subject for some reason, with many stocking wearers and aficionados having their own ideas that they stick to firmly.  That is fine of course - this article covers my own views on the subject and shares some of the tips and tricks I have learned which I hope you will find useful. 

Are stockings fun to wear? For many people, stockings are a clothing item that adds visual appeal and glamour. From the appearance of the delicate stocking material itself, to the tantalizing ‘giggle line’ created by the garment's top, it is easy to see why people find them attractive. On top of this, stockings offer an enjoyable tactile experience due to their soft texture. It is for these reasons that many people consider wearing stockings as a fun way to add some excitement to their ensemble. 

Stockings and suspenders are for life, not just Valentine's Day!  Perfect with your favourite vintage dress.

First and foremost it is essential that you buy a suspender belt that fits you perfectly and not tight around you waist as your personal comfort is so important. Wearing suspenders that are too loose on your waist will cause your stockings to sag, but suspenders that are too tight will be uncomfortable, as well as causing your stockings to 'pull'.  Okay, I'll admit there are lots of different types of suspender belts around and you'll need to make a decision if you want to go for comfort or looks - or preferably both at the same time.  Why do women wear stockings?  Because they want to look and feel special and glamorous. The kind of suspender belt you wear is obviously a matter of personal choice and there are lots of variations to choose from - either 'waist' suspender belts that fasten around your waist, or 'waspie' suspender belts that are almost like a corset in shape (very retro), or even suspender belt briefs which, as the name suggests, are essentially knickers with stocking straps attached.  Personally I prefer the lacy little softline 'waist' style suspender belts with no more than 4 straps, but then that's just my own view of things!

Again, rather like the different types of suspender belt, the number of straps you have is entirely up to you.  My own personal view is that 4 straps are enough to do the job of keeping my stockings in place although I do have just one belt with 6 straps.  Some somewhat fetishistic suspender belts have multiple straps but just remember that they won't do a better job of keeping your stockings in place than less straps and it will take ages to get all those straps straight and in place. Each to their own, I know, but what is the point?  If you don't believe me then to illustrate my point just have a look on the internet for images of 1950s fashion women wearing stockings and suspenders and you'll soon see examples of straps fastened badly, stockings at different heights, excessive pulling on the welt (some even consider that sexy!) and seams that wander off all over the place.  This article on how best to wear suspenders with stockings assumes you want to wear them all day and not just for a 'quickie' - be that a half-hour photo shoot or a boudoir romp!

The last thing you want is for your suspender belt to be constantly pulled downwards because you didn't attach the straps properly or you are wearing the wrong size stockings (I'll get to that in a minute) so the plan is to wear the suspender belt around your waist so that it stays there, kept in place by your hips.  You need to make sure you avoid constant pulling and tugging downwards for the time you are wearing stockings causing you discomfort as well as having to constantly adjust or reattach the straps.  All this can be avoided by following some simple steps right at the start when you first get dressed.

As someone who has sold literally hundreds of pairs of stockings over the years I am regularly asked the same questions over and over.  "What is the foot size?" is the most common question, usually followed by questions about the style - are they fully fashioned (FF), or do they have a Cuban heel?  But oddly, the most important question of all and one that is central to making your whole stocking experience work hardly ever gets asked - "what is the leg length?"

We all have different leg lengths and stockings are made to different leg lengths too so it is vitally important to buy the right length for you.  If you have long legs with short length stockings then every time you move your suspender belt will be pulled downwards and no doubt your suspender straps will continually and annoyingly part company with your stocking welt.  Conversely, if you have short legs (like me) with stockings that are too long then they'll sag and wrinkle and eventually be visibly too long around your shoes.

It is definitely better to buy the best quality stockings you can get hold of.  If you are thinking of buying modern non-vintage stockings made using traditional manufacturing methods then my recommendation is to try brands like Cervin, or Gio if you are looking for very high quality standards.  Of course, not all true vintage stockings were made to the highest standards so always make a point of carefully examining the flatknit weave of the nylon for uniformity and make sure the seams (if any) are genuine seams and not just machine overlocked seams that will start to look shabby fairly quickly.  Whatever else you do, make sure the welt of the stocking (the heavier weight band at the top) is high quality and strong enough to take the suspender clip without laddering.

Nylon stocking fact: a lot of people mistakenly think the term 'Fully Fashioned' refers to the classic visible seam running up the back of the stocking.  It actually doesn't.  For stockings to be 'fully fashioned' (FF) it means that the stocking has been fully fashioned to the true shape of the leg.  Original 1940's fashion pure nylon stockings had no stretch in them and so had to be shaped to fit the contours of the wearer's legs. So, to be 'fully fashioned' stockings didn't necessarily have to have a seam - though in those days they probably did.  Later, stockings with some stretch in their fabric didn't have the shape of earlier ones, but by that time the term 'fully fashioned' started to be confused with seams. 

Put simply, I would recommend buying genuine vintage fully fashioned stockings every time if you are looking for the full 1940's and 50's fashion pin-up glamour experience.  Why? Because you know they'll be fully fashioned to properly fit the shape of your leg. You'll know the seams are genuine, not overlocked. You'll also know for sure that they are made from pure nylon, not a mix. Even though they are decades-old vintage they are relatively easy to obtain online. Even though they are vintage they are still new and unworn, and they usually don't cost any more to buy than the modern 'reproduction' stockings on sale elsewhere online.  You can buy modern-made stockings any time you like from lots of online retailers, high street shops, supermarkets and even newsagents - but they can never be the same as the real thing.

Nylon stockings are not only stylish, but they are also incredibly comfortable and fun to wear. The silky nylon fits closely against your skin as you move, while still allowing breathability to keep you cool. They provide a smooth, sleek look while also offering an alluring feeling of sophistication and femininity. In addition to being fashionable, they also offer practical benefits such as support for the legs, improved posture and even health benefits like prevention of certain blood clots due to their snug fit.  Plus, with a wide range of colors and styles available, you can easily find the perfect pair to accentuate any outfit! 

It works best if you sit down to attach your stockings to your suspender belt.  I know the temptation may be to do this while standing up but you will find by sitting down to put them on your stockings will not 'pull' as you move around and they will be in the most natural position.  The trick is to have the welts even across your legs without any obvious pulling.  I was taught this technique quite independently by a couple of delightful ladies who were old enough to remember the glamorous days of the 1940's, 1950's and 60's and were happy to pass it on to me when I first started to wear stockings.  If you look at my photo you can see that my suspender straps are almost tight but not quite - there is a tiny bit of 'play' but not much.  Sit with your body upright on a sturdy chair or stool, not slouched on a sofa or a bed.  If your suspender straps have adjustable length then now would be a good time to either tighten or loosen them - remember, having your suspender belt straps just on the loose side of tight while sitting upright will ensure your nylon stocking ensemble will be at it's most comfortable for you.  Don't forget that true vintage pure nylon stockings have no stretch or 'give' in them at all so it is vital that you get this bit right if you are wearing the 'real thing'.

Start with the two front straps first and once you are happy with any adjustments you have made then secure the two straps at the back and adjust them too.  It is good practice to fully extend the two back straps of your suspender belt to their fullest extent before you put it on and adjust their sliders for a perfect fit after you have first done the front straps. Place your clip no more than 5mm over the welt of your stocking - any more will strain your stockings and be uncomfortable for you.  If you plan to sit down for most of the day, perhaps at a desk at work, then loosen the length of your straps just a teeny-weeny bit more and you'll find it even more comfortable.  If you plan to move around a lot then leave them as they are.

• 7 little-known things to look for when buying a vintage slip. 

The short answer to this question is 'yes you can' BUT doing so will probably cause you so much hassle that you'll want to abandon the idea pretty quickly.  The main problem with wearing (or trying to wear) hold-ups with suspenders is that the high-friction rubberised welt on hold-ups are usually too thick for the suspender clip to grip on and they will detach all too often. I should know - I tried it once and almost immediately regretted it.  I can't help wondering why someone would want to wear hold-up stockings with a suspender belt in the first place though.  It could be that hold-ups are not actually much good at holding up (moistening the rubbery bit of the hold-up helps, supposedly) so you'd perhaps want to keep them in place with a suspender belt, but then why not just buy a pair of normal stockings instead?  That would be far more comfortable than having to endure those ghastly clammy rubberized welts of hold-ups and if it is the deep lace tops of hold-ups that is the attraction then there are plenty of modern lace stockings available now with beautiful lace tops.  

Always wear your suspender straps OVER your knickers.   There - I've nailed my colours firmly to the mast.  Never mind all that nonsense about being 'ready for action' (what action?!) or going to the toilet.  Go for comfort every time - and the only real way you can be truly comfortable wearing stockings and suspenders is to have the straps over your knickers.  It looks nicer too.  If you are called upon to engage in a little, er, l'amour boudoir then make your excuses and go to the bathroom, undo your straps and take your knickers off. The wait will do him good. I'll cover going to the toilet in the next paragraph but before I do let us have a quick look of the results of a completely unscientific 'straw poll' I held asking the opinions of just over 300 people who either love wearing stockings themselves or love people who do. The question was simple - 'should your suspender straps be under or over your knickers?' 

• 8 out of 10 respondents wore their knickers OVER their garter belt straps. 
• Over 75% of those respondents were happy to tell me they were men.
• Just 12% of the respondents were women.  The rest didn't want to say.
• Most of the women, 11%, wore their knickers UNDER their straps either all or most of the time.

As I mentioned earlier, this was a totally unscientific 'straw poll' of women wearing suspenders so we should be slightly skeptical of reading too much into it but one thing seems to be clear that men have very clear ideas about where their opinions stand on the question.  Maybe (dare I speculate?) their reaction is perhaps fetishistic and maybe represents a more 'idealised' view of how stockings and suspenders should be worn?  Who knows.  The views of the small number of women however seem to suggest a greater emphasis on both comfort and outward appearance when wearing suspenders and stockings under clothing.

I think I'll leave the last word to a respected friend who knows so much more than most when it comes to wearing stockings, Mrs Nylonova (that's all you need to know!) of Nylonova ( nylonova.art ) who told me "From the beginning of my adventure with nylon stockings, I put them on 95% in the same way - garter belt over the panties.  Actually I’ve never really thought about all of this. I chose this way of donning because I did it intuitively for the very first time and it stays that way". 

Mrs Nylonova then goes on to say "I am aware of the fact that [wearing panties over straps] is more convenient, for example when using the toilet, which should be mentioned, because it is an inseparable daily human activity. However, it is more important to me that when I put on clothes that fit my body quite tight, I prefer the garter belt strap shapes to be visible rather than the shape of panties".

I won't labour this point for long, but we have to discuss it here as the subject always crops up in the conversation and is closely allied to the 'straps under or over' question/debate mentioned above.  I have to declare that anatomy-wise I can only see things from a female perspective.  If you don't happen to be female you'll no doubt have to adapt.  I'll start by saying that unless you have extremely short suspender straps then there is plenty of room to lower your knickers without having to undo your straps at all.  I've never had a problem so far.  Besides, if it really was a problem then I could do one or two things - either undo all four straps (no thanks!) or, preferably, pull your entire knicker/suspender belt ensemble down over your hips.  Certainly from my point of view going to the toilet is no reason why anyone would want to wear their suspender straps under their knickers.  Enough toilet talk!

• Always sit down to clip your stockings to your suspender straps and adjust them for comfort.
• Wear your suspender straps OVER your knickers.  1950s knickers deserve to be worn properly.
• Make sure you buy the right leg length stockings. Too many people overlook this important piece of advice.
• Buy and wear only high quality stockings.  Look for strong welts that won't fray or ladder.
• Loosen your straps slightly if you plan to spend much of your day sitting down.
• Americans and Canadians call suspender belts 'garter belts'. 
• For sheer luxury try wearing 7 denier stockings - so soft, light and sheer that if you drop a pair they'll float gently down to the ground like a feather.
• Did you know that the 15th of May is National Nylon Stocking Day? Wear your vintage nylon stockings with pride!

Here is some useful 1960's vintage stocking wisdom from Taylor Woods, the lingerie and stocking maker based in Northern Ireland...

"And, finally, a reminder to all leg men of what a playful breeze used to do. Why was it so exciting to see a stocking top in every day wear?  Simply because it wasn't meant to be seen" (by kind permission of David Bigwood from his book 'A Brief History of Stockings'). 

Further nylon stocking reading: 

• Sheer nylon stockings - an old New York hosiery store.  
• Nylon stocking size guide.  It is essential you get your stocking size right.  Read about it here.
• Nylon stocking info page.  Even more information to help you buy the right stockings and suspenders.
• Nylonova photo art.  The stunningly beautiful nylon stocking photography of Nylonova.
• Schiaparelli stockings review  I wear and review my favourite brand of 1950s vintage nylon stocking.
•  Wilson-Kovacs D. (2001) The Fabric of Love: a Semiotic Analysis of the Suspender Belt. 
•  A Century of Lingerie: Icons of Style in the 20th Century;  Karoline Newman, Karen Bressler, Gillian Proctor (Chartwell Books, 1997)

 Article written by Emma Benitez. BA (Hons) in Fashion and Dress History, incurable vintage aficionado and owner of Nylon Nostalgia.